LIFE 1939: ♪♫♪ "If everybody had an ocean..." ♪♫♪ #California #surfing on 13 ft.

LIFE 1939: ♪♫♪ "If everybody had an ocean..." ♪♫♪ #California #surfing on 13 ft. wooden boards in 1939! http://bit.ly/1AbuIZ7

"For sheer fun, nothing can equal the thrills of riding a surfboard. It is like tobogganing down a moving hill. Floating on a 13 ft. wooden board, the rider is suddenly lifted upward by an onrushing wave. As he begins to shoot forward and careen down the sloping water, he gets to his feet, guides his board obliquely on the wave. If his balance is not right, the churning crest may engulf and sink him, leave him gurgling and gulping for air. If he is an expert, he may travel at a speed of 33 m.p.h., ride a wave for half a mile."

#surfer #surf #1930s